Pepper = hu-chiao (Mandarin) = woo jiu (Cantonese) = merica (Indonesian) = prik thai (Thai) = hat-trieu (Vietnamese)

Often referred to as the king of spices, pepper has an ancient and illustrious past. Known and valued in India for over two thousand years, it was introduced into Europe in the 4th century BC. Demand rapidly grew, but transporting the spice across Asia by the caravan routes was costly, and the monopoly meant that the prices remained astronomically high. Even in Roman times there was outrage that the spices were sold at one hundred times their original cost.

It was the demand for pepper that inspired the search for sailing routes to the East which changed the course of history. When the Portuguese explorer vasco da Gama opened up the sea route to India in the 15th century, Lisbon became the spice capital of the world, but still the prices stayed high. Even today pepper is most important spice on world markets, both in terms of value and volume.

Pepper is a perennial climbing vine indigenous to the Malabar coast of India where it is said that the best pepper is still produced. It grows best near the equator and is cultivated intensively in Sarawak and Thailand, as well as in tropical Africa and Brazil. In the Malayan state of Sarawak the vines are trained up long ironwood frames or round tree trunks. The vines have to be controlled to prevent them from climbing too high, which would make harvesting difficult. The leaves are long, green and pointed and white flowers blossom on the catkins or "spikes".

The plant starts fruiting three to five years after planting, and the harvest continues every three years thereafter for forty years, which is the life of the plant. When the berries are harvested they are still unripe and green. In Sarawak they are dried on mats in the sun, and are raked frequently until the skin shrivels and the berries darken to become the familiar black peppercorns. Another method is to immerse the berries in boiling water, drain them well, and then dry them in kilns. White peppercorns are husked ripe berries. The berries are picked when they are red or orange. They are soaked in running water for several days, and then they are trampled underfoot to loosen the husks. Finally the pepper berries are transferred to rattan baskets, where they are washed and the husks and stalks removed by hand to leave the white peppercorns. These are then left to dry on mats in the sun for several weeks, or kiln-dried.

Black peppercorns have an earthy aroma, which is particularly noticeable when they are crushed. The flavor is hot and pungent. White peppercorns are slightly milder.

Pepper is the one spice which is used before, during and after cooking. Its value as a seasoning is legendary, for it not only has its own flavor, but has the ability to enhance the flavor of other ingredients in a dish.

Green peppercorns

These are simply unripe berries. They are sold on the stem in some Thai supermarkets, and are a popular ingredient in that country. They can be used fresh, but are also dried, pickled or canned. Those that are bottled or  canned need to be rinsed and drained, then added whole or crushed as the recipe dictates. Freeze-dried green peppercorns can be ground in a peppermill. Green peppercorns have a less complex flavor than white or black peppercorns but are still quite fiery.

Mustard  = biji savi (Malay)

Mustard is one of the oldest spices known to man and has been cultivated as a crop for thousands of years. Both white (alba) and black (nigra) mustard seeds are indigenous to the Mediterranean region, while brown mustard seeds (juncea) are native to India. The word mustard comes from the Latin mustum or must, the newly pressed grape juice that Romans mixed with the ground seeds to make what was aptly described as mustum ardens (the burning paste).

In Asia, the mustard plant is valued as much for its dark green leaves, which are called mustard greens and are a popular vegetable, as for its seeds. Mustard powders and pastes are not as widely used as they are in Europe or America.

Mustard seeds have no aroma in their raw state. When they are roasted, however, they develop a rich, nutty small. Mustard's famous hot taste comes from an enzyme in the seeds, which is only activated when they are crushed and mixed with warm water. Brown mustard seeds, which have largely replaced the black seeds, are not as intensely pungent. White mustard seeds, which are actually a pale honey color, are slightly larger than the other two varieties and a little milder.

Throughout Asia, mustard seeds are used for pickling and seasoning. The whole seeds are often used in vegetable and dhal dishes, especially in countries such as Malaysia.

Mustard seeds are frequently roasted or fried before being used to bring out their flavor. A southern Indian technique involves spooning the seeds into hot ghee or oil, with a few curry leaves for extra flavor. A lid is placed over the pan to contain the seeds, which soon begin to splutter and pop. The seeds and oil are then poured, still sizzling, on to hot vegetable dishes, soups, stews or dhal as a flavorsome topping. Mustard oil is occasionally used for frying the seeds.

Mustard powder is used as a condiment. When it is mixed with warm water, milk or beer, a chemical reaction begins which allows the mustard to achieve its maximum potency. It takes about 15 minutes for the full flavor to develop. Boiling water or vinegar would inhibit the action of the enzyme responsible for the process, so should not be used.