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VIETNAM
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Few cultures of the world have been as misunderstood in the West as those of South-East Asia. Among them, the lands of Vietnam are probably the least understood. Although there are overtones which reflect Chinese, Indian and a later French influence, authentic Vietnamese cuisine is unique. Craig Claiborne, leading food critic of the "New York Times", acclaims the Vietnamese kitchen as "one of the most outstanding on earth". In France, home of haute cuisine, Vietnamese chefs have earned so enviable a reputation that soon after John F Kennedy became president, a Vietnamese chef was invited to take charge of the White House kitchen.The diversity of Vietnamese cuisine is at least partially explained by the country's geography. The extensive coastline, stretching over 1400 miles along the eastern seaboard of South-East Asia, provides all kinds of fish and shellfish.Rice, staple food of the vast majority of Asian kitchen, is no less important in the cooking of Vietnam. Prepared in infinite variety, it appears at every meal and is, indeed, the "bread" of life. In Vietnam and other Asian countries, glutinous ( sweet) rice is normally only used for sweets or snack. For all-round use, the Vietnamese prefer rice that is very dry and flaky.Vietnamese cuisines make good use of homegrown fruits and vegetables. The markets are a feast to Western eyes with their colorful display of unfamiliar fruits, vegetable and fresh herbs. A variety of mints, lemon grass and coriander are used in dishes.Meat is less widely used than fish and seafood, primarily because it is relatively expensive. Lamb and mutton are not seen at all. Pork is cheaper than other types of meat and is therefore more frequently eaten. Vietnamese pigs, fed on chopped banana tree trunks, produce a superior pork that is much prized. Chicken and duck, much leaner than their Western counterparts, are seen on special occasions. Beef is very expensive and is served only at very special feasts.Nuoc Cham, also known as Nuoc man, is a universal condiment, used in many different ways. This clear, salty liquid is prepared by layering fresh anchovies, sardines and other small fish, with salt, in large barrels; these are then set out in the sun. Nuoc Cham is added to all kinds of dishes during preparation; it also serves as the base for sauces to be sprinkled on prepared dishes or served as a dip. It also combined with garlic, lime or lemon juice, sugar and fresh chilies, and used to enhance flavors of other foods.The hallmarks of Vietnamese cuisine are lightness and subtlety, with a delicacy and clarity of flavor. Although Chinese influences are apparent, they have been so assimilated that even a stir-fried dish which looks somewhat Chinese will have a taste and aroma unmistakably Vietnamese, while their curry is quite unlike any Indian curry. The Vietnamese aversion to fats is apparent in their stir-frying technique in which even less oil is used than in Chinese cooking. Their dislike of fat is probably one reason why the Vietnamese simmer so many of their dishes. The light and delicate nature of this cuisine can be attributed to this limited use of fats and the emphasis on fresh, raw vegetables.The food of north is not as spicy as that of the south, although black pepper is widely used as a condiment, Northerners like their vegetables cooked and tend to prefer more complex and delicate flavors. Fish is not as important in the north , but shellfish, such as crab, is exceedingly popular. Stir-fried dishes are seen more often in the north than in the centre and south-undoubtedly because of the proximity of the Chinese Border.The centre mountainous neck of land connecting the north and south, is where Hue, the ancient capital of the kings of Vietnam is located. Here the influence of the royal palate is evident in the emphasis on food presentation. Small portions of a variety of dishes are served at each meal and spicy foods predominate, with the frequent use of hot chili peppers and Nuoc Cham.
The hot climate and fertile fields of the south provide a great
variety of vegetables, fruits, meat and game. Large quantities of
fresh fruit and raw vegetables are consumed. A tropical people, the
south Vietnamese traditionally prefer spicy food; they also make
good use of locally grown coconut and sugar cane. The influence of
the French is more evident here - in the use of Western vegetables,
such as potatoes and asparagus, though prepared in Vietnamese style.
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